Mykonos: A Family Guide

 

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  3. The beauty and simplicity of Greece has always had an intoxicating appeal: from the blue horizons and mellow summery scents to the spiced dishes and beyond, Moda Familia editor Natasha Inchley travels from Sydney to Greece with her young family in tow—sharing a few snapshots along the way ... 

Into The Blue: main picture top, "mesimeri" time at Mykonos Blu Luxury Hotel & Resort, that lazy moment in the Greek afternoon when hammocks come in handy. Above, the white-washed stone houses of Mykonos town and its scenic shipping port.

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mykonos , mykonos Blu , kiki's taverna , kastro's , city guide

 

I love the heat. I love the headiness of Greece and its long, dreamy afternoons. My grandmother was born on the island of Kérkyra, or Corfu, and no doubt for that reason I have always felt a deep sense of patriotism when visiting her country, like returning home despite the fact I can manage little of the language – it's funny how place can somehow seem to be an extension of self. My childhood memories of Greece take in everything from its mellow summer scents and the salty sea air, to the tastes of ripened fruits, the honey, the bees and the mad bustle of Athenian traffic. My son Oscar, who is 8, was given the middle name Aristotle – I thought it was romantic, but my grandmother was shocked: "Ancient history is one thing but have you studied up on the shipping magnate?!". It is Charlie, 5, however, who seems to have magically soaked up the most from his heritage: an Australian boy with a great appreciation for the senses – the pleasure of eating, indulgently and slowly; the ceremony of being in the sun, the way things taste and smell, the dancing, the unhurriedness of it all; things that I consider to be a very Greek approach to life. I think there's a lot there to appreciate. And so it was with incredible excitement that my husband Chris and I journeyed to the islands of Corfu and Mykonos with our boys this past summer, I hope you enjoy a little slice of our adventure.
 
Words Natasha Inchley

1. My idea of heaven is a very, very long lunch at Kastro's (pictured above and below). There's something so surreal about discovering this seaside restaurant through the labyrinthine streets of Little Venice in Mykonos town. If you are lucky enough to secure Table Number 1, which you must do (book in advance), you will find yourself in the restaurant's narrow laneway, sitting on banquettes against a white stone wall right at the water's rocky edge; truth be known it is breath-taking at any time of the day. For dinner, my husband and I couldn't decide between the grilled sea bream in olive oil, lemon and oregano sauce, the Minouri cheese pie, the misto fritto or the Mykonian salad, so we took our time and ordered them all. The chef prepared our sons a simple cheese pasta with a pinch of chilli, at his recommendation, which was extremely delicious and thoughtful. Kastro's owner is also very charming and presented us with Limoncellos at the end of our meal, our sons were served homemade lemon cordials in the same liqueur glasses, needless to say everyone was very happy. A few days later we returned for the grilled octopus, an incredible dish, equal in greatness only to the view during a late afternoon rainstorm.

KASTRO'S RESTAURANT, Agion Anargyron 1, near Paraportiani Church, Little Venice. Tel:+30 2289 023072. General opening hours: 10:00 am – 1:00 am. Request Table Number 1 and do book ahead.

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2. Another favourite experience is lunch at Kiki's Taverna (pictured below), a terrace restaurant overlooking Ayios Sostis beach – it's an out-of-town destination well worth the taxi fair. We arrived in the midday heat and queued for a table in the shade; the sun shining through the taverna's thatched roof bathing its guests in dappled light. Here, the view, the smells from the kitchen and the welcoming glass of rosé are all too pleasant, no one seems to mind the wait. There are maybe no more than 20 tables, and Kiki's signature dishes are grilled meats accompanied by a selection of salads – beets in yogurt dressing, white beans in chilli oil, artichokes with lemon. The grilled pork is a must and the spiced lentils are so intense and good we all fell silent as we tasted them. A year or so ago the owners installed electricity at the diner, not that this has resulted in extended hours for dinner. Don't arrive at dusk, it's a lunch-only service – after all, this is Greece ... 

KIKI'S TAVERNA is located down the winding gravel road towards Agios Sostis beach, next to the local church. It is not sign-posted, does not take bookings and generally opens between 12 and 6pm during high season. Ask your concierge to confirm.

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  2. 3. Many years ago I was fortunate enough to meet Tina Daskalantonakis for a Vogue Australia assignment to celebrate the 2004 Olympics – Tina had recently published her divine pocket book, The Chic Guide To Athens. My husband and I were to be married that year in Santorini and she proved an incredible source of inspiration. Tina also kindly treated us to a very special lunch at her family's then-hotel, the King George in Syntagma Square, Athens, which was a lavish experience – lobster salad, French champagne, an enormous Venetian chandelier hanging overhead, the view of the Acropolis, you get the picture. In Greece, the Daskalantonakis name is akin to royalty, not just because the family owns the country's largest luxury resort group, Grecotel, but also for its philanthropic efforts and eco-initiatives, among them a campaign to sustain Crete's environment by employing local farmers in organics. A few years later, Tina and I reunited again, this time at her home outside of Athens and both of us with sons the same age, such a joy. I love her bold style and wonderful charisma. This year, it was a great thrill to stay at her family's Grecotel's resort, Mykonos Blu (pictured below), a compound popular for its modern all-white suites, exceptional service, contemporary art collection, fine dining and the crystal clear waters of Psarou beach. The island resort also happens to be located next to Nammos Restaurant By The Sea, undoubtedly Greece's most famous nightclub.      

MYKONOS BLU GRECOTEL EXCLUSIVE ISLAND RESORT features luxury island bungalows and waterfront suites with private pools, fine dining and tailored services. The resort is located at Psarou beach, Mykonos. Tel: +30 2289 027900 or look up: www.mykonosblu.com for rates and further information.

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Swing time: above, my sons on the upper terrace at Mykonos Blu after a late breakfast, hypnotised by the sea views; and Charlie taking a midday snooze; Hazy Shade Of Pale: below, the resort cleverly combines the minimalist beauty of the Cycladic landscape with modern luxuries – on every terrace you will find a cosy daybed plumped with pillows, a wonderfully quiet space to spend the afternoon reading, snacking and contemplating the sparkling Aegean.
The Art Of Slow: after a swim at Psarou beach, we would usually find ourselves climbing the stairs to the resort's multi-tiered infinity pool, a chance to cool in the shade with an iced Mastiha or chilled rose. Everything is a brilliant, dazzling white. The super yachts would come and go – we loved to watch them moor, their passengers zooming off in jetskis to lunch at Nammos restaurant. Below, the view from Psarou beach looking up to Mykonos Blu, our home for ten days. Heavenly!
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